Vegetable seeds don't look like much. Most seeds are black or brown, drab-looking and even wrinkled. Some seeds are so tiny they are barely visible. But all seeds contain an embryonic plant together with a storehouse of food to supply energy requirements for the initial growth of young seedlings.
General Seed Inspection
Go through each variety one at a time, spreading seeds out on a smooth surface. Eliminate any pale-looking or undersized seeds. Seeds should have good color and be uniform in size. Check for cracked or broken seeds or seeds that appear to have sustained insect damage and remove them as well. Smell the seeds to ensure they aren't musty or moldy.
Only full-sized, ripe, undamaged seeds will produce robust, fast-growing healthy seedlings. Healthy seedlings can tolerate early season growing stress and will develop expansive root systems that compete better with weeds and are able to tolerate low disease levels.
Pre-sprout Vegetable Seeds
Take a small sampling from a seed packet and record the length of time it takes for seeds to germinate. Seeds deteriorate during storage and germination times increase prior to complete loss of viability. Most seeds germinate between 6-20 days and seed packets generally give germination dates for specific plant seeds. For example, beans usually germinate within 10 days. Any longer than that and their ability to produce thriving plants diminishes.
Seeds need warmth in order to germinate and most do best around 20C (68F). Also, seeds must absorb 40-60% of their weight in water to trigger germination and have a little pore on the seed coat through which to take in water.
A simple method of seed germination is to sprinkle seeds on a damp, but not soggy, paper towel. Slip seeds and towel into a baggie, seal the baggie and place it on top of the refrigerator where it's warm or alternatively on a heat mat. Even a household heating pad placed at its lowest heat setting gives adequate heat. Be sure to protect the heating pad from direct contact with the seed baggie.
Once it is determined that germination time is within optimal levels, plant out seeds in seed trays. Keep them misted and warm and observe seedling growth. This is the time to winnow out seedlings that don't perform normally and are spindly or deformed. Even if it is decided that most seeds have sprouted well and the packet is planted out, watch the seedlings from the suspect packet and eliminate the poor performers from the vegetable patch.
Longevity of Stored Seeds
Some gardeners prefer to save their own seeds or have leftover seeds from the current year. Ideal seed longevity is determined by the ripeness of the seeds being stored and the method of storage.
Many seeds will only keep a single year so it is important to use them up the following year or throw them out. Some seeds that fall into that category are sweet corn, onions, parsley, parsnips and spinach. Asparagus, beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, peas and celery may be stored safely for three years. Cucumbers, lettuce and cantelope may be stored up to five years.
Cool, dark, dry conditions are required to store seeds. Fluctuating heat and humidity cause the viability of seeds to deteriorate rapidly. Seeds last longest at a moisture content of 8-10%. Accomplish this low moisture level by adding silica gel to an airtight jar, adding the seeds and sealing. Small seeds will often dry overnight but large seeds may take several days. Once the seeds are dry they can be sealed in a new, dry jar and kept in the coolest, driest part of the house.
Linnea Heinrichs - After years of extensive research into the medieval period, Linnea's debut novel, The First Vial, was published in 2005 by Thistledown ...
